Bank holiday in Cyprus

“What could possibly go wrong?” my DH said last week, referring to the holiday we’d booked to Cyprus.

“It’ll be fine,” he promised me, waving a whole envelope-full of Euros at me as I furtively googled things like ‘Do ATMs still give money in Cyprus?’, ‘Will our credit card work in Cyprus?, ‘Are there riots in Paphos?’.

I was a little nervous – understandably, don’t you think? We’d spent several days trying to come up with a holiday destination that ticked all the boxes – no more than four hours away (mums with small children will understand my logic here); good weather; kid-friendly; and no major sporting events going on (like the Grand Prix that quashed our plans to go to Malaysia).

Cyprus is the third largest Mediterranean island

Cyprus is the third largest Mediterranean island

And, for us – because we travel on stand-by – we also had to find a country that had space on the flights. “Cyprus looks good,” said DH. “The flights have seats.”

“All booked,” he texted later, as I sat at my desk grinning with anticipation at the thought of going to the land of yoghurt and honey, taramasalata and tzatziki.

Then I turned the TV on.

Cyprus was the top story, on every.single.news.programme I flicked to. The country was on the brink, practically bankrupt and in financial crisis. NO WONDER the flights had space.

“Oh no! What to do?” I nearly wept to DH. “Should we cancel?”

Of course not he said. We just need to take lots of Euros with us (if I’m honest, it wasn’t just the money I was worrying about; it had occurred to me that people might be panic-buying and all that yummy Greek food I’d imagined us eating might be in short supply).

The horror!

Although my DH does have a history of ending up in the world’s hotspots (getting stuck in Kuwait during the Iraqi invasion of 1990, for example), I did believe him – he’s as level-headed as a spirit level and immensely worldly-wise. And, anyway, packing for me and the children diverted my mind for the rest of the day.

We flew to Larnaka early the next morning, picked up a teeny-tiny hire car and set off across the island, past olive groves, fragrant citrus orchards and sea-lashed secluded coves, and discovered that life was, indeed, continuing as normal.

The taramasalata hadn't run out after all

The taramasalata hadn’t run out after all

From the small fishing villages on the sparkling coast to the parts of Cyprus that are more like a sunny Essex suburb, tourism on this stunning but insolvent Mediterranean island was continuing unabated.

The banks were closed, but the lights were still on. The ATMs were being refilled with cash and credit card transactions were going through. We’d heard the Cypriots were running out of small coins, with taxi drivers rounding up to the nearest 5 or 10, but change wasn’t a problem in any of the towns we visited.

I like to think we did our bit – by spending our stash of cash, and eating our weight in the most delicious, creamy Greek dips and lemon-drizzzled dishes.

Happy days.

The term Mediterranean is derived from the Latin for "middle of the Earth" because to the ancient Romans, the vibrant sea was the centre of the world

The term Mediterranean is derived from the Latin for “middle of the Earth” because to the ancient Romans, the vibrant sea was the centre of the world

Whinging holidaymakers

We see our fair share of tourists here in Dubai – in winter, they’re the ones in the sea or pool, frolicking in the chilly water while those of us who live here year-round don’t even put our big toe in.

In summer, holidaymakers are the ones who totally underestimate the heat, and set out on foot only to return 15 minutes later drenched in sweat, the colour of beetroot and with a mild case of heat stroke.

I’ve passed many a happy few minutes observing the habits of visitors to our glittering emirate – from the beautiful Russians who strike model-like poses for their holiday snaps to the Gauloise-smoking French who wave my children away on the beach with a flick of the hand.

But tourists round the world, I’ve realised, share many similarities – one of which is a tendency to moan. I’m sure all nationalities do this, but I did find this list, from Thomas Cook Holidays detailing some of their UK clientele’s genuine complaints (and doing the rounds via email), especially hilarious.

"The beach was too sandy!"

“The beach was too sandy!”


Enjoy!

– “I think it should be explained in the brochure that the local store in Indian villages does not sell proper biscuits like custard creams or ginger nuts.”

– “It’s lazy of the local shopkeepers to close in the afternoons. I often needed to buy things during ‘siesta’ time – this should be banned.”

– “On my holiday to Goa in India, I was disgusted to find that almost every restaurant served curry. I don’t like spicy food at all.”

– “We booked an excursion to a water park but no-one told us we had to bring our swimming costumes and towels.”

“We found the sand was not like the sand in the brochure. Your brochure shows the sand as yellow but it was white.”

“No-one told us there would be fish in the sea. The children were startled.”

“There was no egg-slicer in the apartment.”

“We went on holiday to Spain and had a problem with the taxi drivers as they were all Spanish.”

“It took us nine hours to fly home from Jamaica to England. It took the Americans only three hours to get home.”

“I compared the size of our one-bedroom apartment to our friends’ three-bedroom apartment and ours was significantly smaller.”

“There are too many Spanish people. The receptionist speaks Spanish. The food is Spanish. Too many foreigners now live abroad.”

“We had to queue outside with no air-conditioning.”

“It is your duty as a tour operator to advise us of noisy or unruly guests before we travel.”

“I was bitten by a mosquito. No-one said they could bite.”

“My fiancé and I booked a twin-bedded room but we were placed in a double-bedded room. We now hold you responsible for the fact that I find myself pregnant. This would not have happened if you had put us in the room that we booked.”

Silent Sunday: Sandballs

I tend not to put personal photos on the blog, but as I’ve made some lovely bloggy friends on here, I’m breaking my rule. I also went to great lengths getting everyone to co-operate for this photo (let’s just say, it was nearly me throwing sand) and so I decided it was worth getting some extra mileage out of it. Have a wonderful festive season and thank you for reading Circles in the Sand!

christmas photo

A tune for Tuesday

After all the bad news, this is a very quick, cheery videopost, best viewed with a mince pie and glass of sherry.

I really enjoy the fact that in Dubai we’re surrounded by about 200 different nationalities – it makes for a rich blend of culture that broadens your horizons in so many ways.

Tonight, our doorbell rang, and standing outside were some carol singers from the Philippines. I invited them in straight away, and called up to the boys that they had a reprieve from bedtime (woo-hoo, they yelped, as they scampered down the stairs).

These carol singers – who our helper Catherine the Great knows from church – visit every year, and I just love how festive they make me feel. Last year, there were about eight of them and it was like having a whole choir drop round. This year, there were just three, with a guitar, but how wonderful to be serenaded like this at home!

This might not work if my blog is emailed to you, but if you’re online, it’s a 30-second snippet of Jingle Bells. Enjoy!

Silent Sunday: Happy Birthday UAE

“It’s a special day today,” piped BB at breakfast this morning. “It’s Dubai’s birthday!” To be precise, it was the UAE’s National Day today, marking forty-one years since the UK’s treaty expired and the separate sheikdoms decided to form an independent union.

Across the emirates, there’s been a celebratory mood for several days now, with lots going on. Then this morning I looked at my phone to find an inspirational text from Dubai’s ruler, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum – it’s not every day that happens!

Having spent more time living in the UAE than anywhere else, my children were quite excited about ‘Dubai’s birthday’. BB made this at a Lego exhibition we went to today.

Having spent more time living in Dubai than anywhere else, my children were quite excited about ‘Dubai’s birthday’ (especially as it means two days off school!). BB made this at a Lego exhibition we went to today.

People decorate their cars and homes with the UAE flag – this was the flag at BB’s school. All the children wore national colours, or national dress, on Thursday to celebrate

People decorate their cars and homes with the UAE flag – this was the flag at BB’s school. All the children wore national colours, or national dress, on Thursday to celebrate

At LB’s school they’ve been learning about the UAE for a few weeks now. I love listening to the class counting in Arabic and naming the seven emirates. I also thought this camel he painted was rather cute!

At LB’s school they’ve been learning about the UAE for a few weeks now. I love listening to the class counting in Arabic and naming the seven emirates. I also thought this camel he painted was rather cute!

Kids, meet Baby Jesus

While I personally think it’s still too early to put the Christmas tree up, my children disagree. I promised we’d do it today, and at 7 on the dot this morning, the pestering started.

“Mummy, c’mon. Get out of bed,” BB ordered, tugging at the duvet. “You said we’d put the tree up.”

No stopping them: My little helpers decorating the tree early this morning (yawn)

My little helpers throwing baubles at the tree

“Later, BB, later,” I uttered in reply, but to no avail. The kids’ excitement about hanging twinkly lights, baubles and tinsel on a fake tree had taken on the momentum of a runaway train that wasn’t about to be halted by a mummy hoping for a lie-in.

I gave in – and got up. We hauled the decorations from the outside storeroom to the house, dusted them off, and got started (minus the Christmas music – as I said, too blimin’ early).

You would think that living in a Muslim country might mean Christmas would start a little later. Not so. The shops are full of it, their floors adorned with trees and their windows decked out.

But the commercialism aside, it’s definitely harder to convey the true meaning of Christmas here. It’s all a bit of a hush-hush operation at BB’s international school, where they do put on a celebration, but disguised as a ‘winter festival’.

To be honest, my children don’t think beyond the presents – and I was reminded of my shortfall in this department today.

Each year, I bring out a nativity scene that I bought at a Christmas festival. As I was setting it up, LB came over and peered at the figurines: he touched the baby Jesus swaddled in the manger; looked quizzically at the reverent wise men bearing gifts, the proud, tired parents and the guardian angel. Then he reached out and grabbed the cow sitting lowing in the hay.

“Mummy, what is it?” he asked, with a not-so-reverent shine in his eyes. “Is it a farm?”

Mental note to self: make sure that this is the year my children learn the basic story of the nativity.

Halloween in the desert

Halloween is HUGE in our compound. It started on October 1 with spooky decorations on a few doorsteps, gathered pace as more households draped cobwebs over the bushes and strung up witches, and culminated last night with our community’s collective descent into trick-or-treatery.

To say the children were very excited is an understatement, and having lived in the States for five years, I can honestly say ‘we do’ Halloween* [whispers: I love this holiday! The children will gorge on bucketfuls of candy, I’ll help myself to copious amounts too – and that’s okay!]

Ready to scare: My littlest skeleton

The kids were dressed and ready by 4pm for a Halloween party next door, then, as night fell, we joined the droves of children outside and trooped from door-to-door under a full moon.

And, I have to say, as I accompanied my two skeletons on a balmy evening around streets aglow with jack-o-lanterns, I was really impressed by the wickedness some of our neighbours had dreamt up.

Not everyone takes part (and the rule is you don’t knock at villas with no porch light on), but many families who did get into the spirit had turned their doorsteps into mini Halloween dens – complete with scary sound effects and fiery torches in some cases.

A few highlights for us were:

– The household with the distressed maiden upstairs who dropped water bombs from the window – with a deathly scream

– The wobbly eyeballs (made from jelly and icing sugar) that were handed out in paper cups and made me whimper

– The dog dressed in a skull-and-crossbone outfit

– The drive-by trick-or-treaters sitting in a six-foot trailer pulled by a quad bike

– The ghoul standing in the dark who honestly looked like he could be fake, but then jumped out on me with an axe [insert horror movie screech]

– And the flying witch rigged up high above G street

* It took a couple of years in the US before I got it. Whilst still a learner, I sat at work one Halloween until 5, wondering why everyone was leaving early. Missed a trick there!

Best-dressed dad: We’d only got about 50 yards or so up our road when my friend informed me: “Just to warn you, all the kids are coming away from that house crying!” Our curiosity piqued, we nudged the kids in that direction, told them to be brave and watched (because after someone’s told you that, you can’t walk away without finding out why, can you?). Lurking in the shadows by their front door was the dad, dressed as a four-legged, long-haired monster, and as the trick-or-treaters filed up the path to line up at the door (yes, line up, there were that many out last night), he’d lurch forwards with a growl. Gotta love the crazy things people do on Halloween!

It’s raining, it’s pouring

“Ag-ain, again!” LB’s eyes were cast skywards, taking in the granite clouds above. The heavens had just opened for the umpteenth time and raindrops were rolling down the window pane. “It’s raining again!”

Pitter-patter. Splish-splosh. Quite honestly, I think I’ve seen more rain in the UK over the past five days than the UAE has seen in a thousand years. There’s been floods of biblical proportions, a month’s worth of rain in 24 hours and a lifeboat rescue, inland. 

All because the jet stream has apparently moved south, meaning the British summer is taking place somewhere over the mid-Atlantic.

I must say, I’m rather enjoying it.  I know, I know. I haven’t had to put up with endless showers for the past two months, and in the morning we’re leaving for the States, where the weather is freakishly hot. But, aside from the length of time it takes to get out of the house (wellies, raincoats, brollies, waders, lifebelt..I’m so out of practice), it’s really refreshing to see the wet stuff again.

Not only are the kids in puddle-jumping heaven, but LB also saw his first-ever rainbow yesterday – a double-arched one too. For me, the wayward weather is a chance to sit on my favourite sofa in the conservatory, listen to the sound of the rain pounding on the roof and admire the lush view outside, in all its greenness.

Splat!

The World Tour

You’d think it should be easy organising a family holiday for four. No third child to have to book an extra hotel room for, no need for the millions I hear are required in the bank before you can take a family of five away.

But, believe me, our imminent World Tour has taken months to plan. Along with the flights (which were rising meteorically in price due to a certain event of Olympic proportions taking place in London), there’s the holiday we’re taking to break up the main holiday. The mini break for a certain birthday. Connecting flights (three legs each way), the hire car (with car seats, somehow), the rental house in the States. And Catherine the Great’s ticket for her home leave to the Philippines, via Hong Kong.

Long gone are the days when it was as easy as booking a package holiday to Crete, packing a few dresses and a sarong, and jetting off to drink tequilas in the sun

Quite honestly, my DH, who took on most of the organising, deserves a gold medal for – fingers crossed – pulling all this off.

So after much deliberation (should we try doing all this on staff travel? Can we fit Florida in too? New York? Wouldn’t it just be easier to go to Thailand? Or Wales?) and many late-night calls to the States, here’s what the itinerary looks like:

Dubai-London. Then a few days later, London-Chicago-Minneapolis. Then, by road, Minneapolis-Lake Superior and back. Two weeks later, Minneapolis-Chicago-London, then nearly four weeks later, London-Dubai. All with two small, high-energy boys, and the extended UK part without DH (who gets a month of bachelor-living in Dubai).

Excited, very. Anxious, yes. Worried the boys might turn feral with jet lag and give up sleeping, yes.

But I’m counting the hours now!

There were definitely moments when our desert escape plans seemed too complex, but during all the planning, we discovered something that added a whole new dimension to our search for a holiday home – a secret weapon that meant we could practically spy on the properties we’d seen advertised.

While I trawled the Internet and followed leads sent by kind friends, my DH – who loves anything to do with navigation – would bring up Google Maps to pinpoint the house. Not content with me calling out the name of a neighbourhood, he’d say, “Look, here’s the road, and if you just go up here a bit, this must be it…Look, right on the end…Right by an enormous patch of industrial land.

“With some construction. And a huge area of …. wait, is that SAND?

Thank goodness for virtual reckies!

When you’re hoping for a leafy neighbourhood, and discover it looks more like Dubai, you’ll never book a summer holiday home again without using Google Maps

Silent Sunday: Glamping, UAE-style

I’ve discovered the most comfortable tent in the world – at the Banyan Tree Al Wadi resort in Ras Al Khaimah in the United Arab Emirates. There were even desert gazelles wondering by. But just wait till you see what else was out the back…

Quite possibly the easiest, most hassle-free camping ever